Delhi – predvsem vonj / Delhi – smell mostly

V tej objavi bom kljub trodimenzionalnosti medijev – v smislu tekst, zvok in slika – pogrešala še četrto dimenzijo – vonj. Pisati o Delhiju brez, da bi prikazal tudi vonj, je skoraj nemogoče. Zato ga bom poskusila opisati. Hrana, smog, goreča plastika, smeti, na nekaterih mestih tudi iztrebki. Človeški ali pasji. To je Delhi, poleg gneče, trobljenja najbolj spretnih voznikov, rikš, motorjev, avtomobilov, dobrih prodajalcev, potepuških psov, udomačenih uličnih krav in dobre (ter manj dobre) hrane. Eksremno dinamično mesto, kjer je težko najti kotiček zase ali se odmakniti. Še najlažje je pobeg v restavracijo na strehi, do katere se vzpneš po 50 stopnicah, ampak se za razgled ter mir izplača.

Z Lukom sva se dobila v Delhiju, kamor je on pripotoval iz Hampija, jaz pa direktno iz Moskve, kjer sem prestopala. V dvodnevnem obisku glavnega mesta sva se sprehodila čez vse bolj ali manj “must see” ulice – od Main Bazaar-ja, ki je poln trgovinic s turističnim materialom, oblačili itd. pa do Chandni Chowk-a, ki je bolj lokalna scena s specializirami ulicami – ulica hrane, orodja, knjig, železa, sadja… Midva sva mesto obiskala v dneh enega večjih festivalov – Diwali, zato naj bi bile ulice te dni še bolj polne. In res so bile. Prvi dan je bilo največ gneče na ulici Chandni Chowk, domačini so se vračali z velikimi paketi – darili, medtem ko sva drugi dan (en dan pred glavnim večerom praznika) opazila gneče pred trgovinami s pirotehniko.

Oba večera sva pa preživela v simpatični, domači restavraciji Everest, ki se dviga nad glavno ulico Main Bazaar-ja. Glede na to, da je alkohol v Indiji težko dobiti, je Luka dobil pivo kar v čajniku. Na skrivaj.

Recikliranje smeti poteka drugače kot pri nas – na cenejši način. Krava, ki je tu sveta žival, se namesto s travo, prihranjuje s smetmi. Prav tako za smeti poskrbijo psi, koze, ponekod kakšna ovca in reveži.

Moje izkušnje z Indijci so mešane. Po eni strani so zelo prijazni, po drugi strani nimajo občutka osebnega prostora in zasebnosti, na način kot to poznamo Evropejci. Neprestano gledajo vate (sploh če si ženska) in te posledično znajo spraviti v nesiguren oziroma neprijeten položaj.

Rikšaši in ulični prodajalci. Te me najbolj presenečajo s svojimi prodajnimi pristopi. Oni ne, da ti ponudijo nekaj kar ti iščeš, ampak ti prodajo nekaj, kar sploh nisi imel v načrtu. Tako sva z Lukom dobila vožnjo po mestu, ki se je na koncu izkazala za prebijanje skozi množico, kjer bi skoraj hitreje prišel peš. Po obvoznici. Center je bil zaprt zaradi festivala. Po drugi strani so pa eksremno zanimivi ljudje s smislom za humor. Veliko sprašujejo, nekateri znajo presenetljivo dobro angleško in zelo radi razlagajo. Vse to, če si njihova stranka. Če nisi njihova stranka oziroma zavrneš ponudbo so užaljeni na osebnem nivoju. Kdaj pa kdaj tudi nesramni.

Po dveh dneh pohajkovanja po mestu se z veseljem odpraviva dalje, še bližje najini končni destinaciji – Himalaji. Vmes se ustaviva še v Varanasiju. Varanasi slovi kot sveto mesto. SKozenj teče reča Ganges, sveta reka. Tu ob večerih potekajo pogrebni procesi – poslednje kopanje trupla v reki ter sežiganje pred množico. Naslednje jutro pa na isti lokaciji skupinsko kopanje kot obred “očiščevanja”. To bo še zanimivo.

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Trying to describe Delhi using photos and text is not enough. That’s why I will try to picture you smell using text – combination of burned plastic, trash, dogs or people’s droppings and smog. Everywhere. All the time. But, beside this, the capital is also known for its really skilful drivers, good sellers (and quite pushy ones), wild dogs, street cows (who eat plastic and trash), rickshaws, beeping, and good (or not that good) looking food. In extremely dynamic town is difficult to find peace for yourself, except running up to 5st floor of some of the floor top restaurants. If not else, worth for its view.

I met Luka at airport after he returned from Hampi (south India).  During our visit of the town we were part of one of the most important celebrations in India – Diwali – holiday of the light. We walked along the most tourist streets – Main Bazaar, where they sell more or less souvenirs and clothes, to more local streets where you find more specific things – such as street of book shops, street of glass shops, street of tool making, of food and so on.  Everything was way too crowded for me.

We spend both evenings in relaxed Nepal’s restaurant called Everest. Friendly staff and well prepared food – I didn’t have any problems afterwards. Even though alchocol is prohibited Luka still managed to get it – in tea pot of course.

When it comes to recycling trash Indians are not the best in it. Or, they are, but they have different style. Instead of using trash cows, dogs, goats and poor people are eating from the floor. Somewhere sheep as well.

Their personal approach – ignoring people’s personal space, is frightening. They keep on staring at you (specially if you are a woman), touch and getting so close you don’t feel really comfortable.

Rickshaw people are nice – as long as you are their customer. They could be extremely funny, speaking English really well and taking you around to the shops during the drive – they usually get cash reward if they take tourists to certain shops. But if you don’t take them as a ride they take it too personally, being rude sometimes. This goes not just to rickshaw drivers but also other people selling on the street.

After two days we decided to move further towards Varanasi. This town is known as religious holy destination – they burn bodies on the street, afterwards throw them in the holy river Ganges. Next morning they all go swimming and washing in the same river for religious purposes. Looking forward to see this. Probably not being part of morning bath.